Showing posts with label is. Show all posts
Showing posts with label is. Show all posts

Thursday, February 20, 2014

Is It English Is It French Does It Matter

Im continuing on writing about building some wooden layout squares for the shop. If you havent been following up to this point you can catch up on the previous posts HERE.

I kind of like Twitter, aside from the stupid name, the group of woodworkers out there are a great bunch of guys. Awhile back when I was beginning work on these squares I spent a day in the shop "Tweeting" through my progress. I would take a picture with my phone and upload it with a "Tweet" I kept calling it an English Layout Square after the title Chris Schwarz and Patrick Leach had bestowed upon it. One of my followers "Tweeted" up, (you see what I mean about the name, I feel like Im writing about Dr. Seuss) anyway, he said
"I still reckon these are French squares - they are hanging on the wall in Roubo plate 11. Whatever, I love yours, Derek :)",

I answered that I was going with what The Schwarz was calling it but I knew the "Roubo" square was more akin to a try square in design. then Jeremy sent me a link to this picture, posted for download on Popular Woodworkings website.
Can you see it. Its a little like a Wheres Waldo puzzle. Id studied this picture a lot, but I had never caught the square / level hanging on the wall on the right side of the picture before. Jeremy had gotten me, and Im rather glad he did.
So what is one to do when presented with that kind of information? You say "awesome idea" and you go with it. Thank you again Jeremy.

But before I could get that far I had a few things to finish up. I wanted to peg the half lap joints for some added stability and because I really though it would look great especially if I used some contrasting wood and I had just the stuff. A while back I picked up a bag of random exotic turning blanks from Woodcraft. I never use exotics at all, but they seemed perfect to turn into some tool handles. So the admission here is that I have no idea what wood this is. If you can figure it out from the pictures youre a better person than I, drop me a comment and let me know what you think it is.
It planed beautifully and was kind of oily once you got deeper than the outer dried layer. After I got it squared up I ran it through the bandsaw to resaw it down to a pile of square dowels a little bigger than 1/4"X1/4" I cut several lengths at around 3/4", tapered them and pounded them through my doweling plate to make 1/4" round dowel.
I laid out and drilled the holes, then placed the dowels with some hide glue.
A little flush cut, a little sanding and I had that wow factor I was looking for.
I squared it up at this point, but Im not going to show that part because I think Chris Schwarz shows it best via a short video on his blog. HERE"S A LINK to that post and video.

 Now I was ready to make the layout square more versatile by giving it the chance to act as a level as well. The first thing I had to do was go out and find a smallish plumb bob. A little time on eBay and I had what I was looking for.
 I drilled a 3/8" hole, in hindsight a little larger than I really wanted to, but its OK. I hit the hole with a little light touch of a countersink to ease the edges. I then took a coping saw blade without the coping saw, and used it to teardrop the hole a little.
 I left the teardrop very tight so that a know in the string would catch in the notch. This way I didnt have to worry too much about leaving the bob tied to the layout square when I just wanted to use it for layouts.
Lately I have been having an excellent time reading Kari Hultmans blog, The Village Carpenter, as shes crafting a level. (If you havent seen it you should because its amazing work) Earlier this afternoon I had to smile as I thought of her work because now I had a new level too, albeit a different and cruder version. But in her post introducing the project I think we may have an answer to the question I pose in the title of this article. Is it English? Is it French? Nope, its Egyptian. Read it HERE.

I laid my four foot construction level on the workbench and shimmed it until the bubble was plumb I then rested the arms of the square on the level, with the plumb bob attached. I waited a few seconds for the bob to stop moving and then held the string tight. I used a pencil to mark on the cross piece on either side of the string. Then I used a sharp chisel to cut a "V" marking plumb, then I also excavated a very shallow indent.
I realize this small indent could give a narrowly false positive when marking level, but seriously the plumb bob is mostly a fun contrivance. Im not giong to trade in any of my bubble levels for this any time soon, but if Im in a pinch, I may find myself leveling out with this baby.

A coat of danish oil and she was looking beautiful, and you may think that was enough for me and sqaures, but youd be mistaken. I had a couple more things I wanted to try.
Cheers.
Oldwolf
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Thursday, February 13, 2014

The first thumb chair is done!

I finally finished the first thumb chair!  Why do these projects always seem to take so long?

I forgot to put the pocket holes for the seat in when I cut the pieces to length
so I added them here.

The plan called for 4 pocket holes for the seat back but I put 5 to play it safe.

I drilled a 1 inch hole in the seat back for a thumb.

Here is the hole sanded smooth.

Time for some finish sanding

And more sanding....

I couldnt think of a good way to clamp the 2 pieces together and like always
my piece drifted a little bit when I screwed it together.  I thought of a possible way
to clamp it for next time so we will see if that works better on the next one.

The 2 pieces are ready for assembly!

 I centered and clamped them and then screwed them together.  No glue.

 Here is the chair ready for stain. 

Here it is stained.  If you have seen any of my other kid projects then you know
that I used the same stain to try and make them all match.

Somehow, I always manage to blow out the thumb on the glove on my right hand
when I stain projects.

1st coat of poly applied.

I let it sit over night and then gave it a light sanding and applied the second coat.

3rd coat of poly applied and it is ready to go in the house!

I put some self adhesive felt pads on the bottom of the feet.  I dont know if they will last
but it is worth a try.  I forgot to mention it above but I also put 2 coats of poly on the bottom
of the chair as well.

All ready for my 2 boys to start fighting over.  I better get the second one done
quick!

This is post 3 of a 3 part series.

You can read part 1 here:
http://blogspot.com/2013/01/lets-make-thumb-chair.html

and part 2 here:
http://blogspot.com/2013/02/thumb-chair-update.html
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Tuesday, February 11, 2014

Test test Is this thing on

Well, lets just see how easy this is.

Hmm, how about a picture:

Okay, that seems to be working...

I guess thats all for now.


















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Monday, February 10, 2014

Thats Not A Petite Workbench This Is A Petite Workbench

With the coming of his newborn son, I for one suspect that Marcs Split Top Roubo bench build will fall behind schedule. I cant think of a better reason to delay a project. Along with the entire Woodworking Community Id like to wish Marc & Nicole the very best with their little bundle of joy.


With the delay of the Split Top Roubo in mind, I set about building a smaller bench that Marc could use with his son. I ended up making two.
My Petite 21st Century & Petite Split Top Roubo Benches
The first is a Split Top Roubo, much as Marc plans to build. Only I made my petiter than Chris Schwarzs Petite Roubo.



The Second is a Petite version of Bob Langs 21st Century Workbench. The big size of Bobs bench and the small size of my shop are the reason Im not making his bench. I figured this Petite version would fit in my space better.




If these benches dont do it for you, then join in with the Guild for the actual workbench build. Given that Marc has a newborn at home, I might actually keep up with him this time.
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Wednesday, February 5, 2014

The kid tables tabletop is done

I got all 5 coats of poly on the tabletop last week and was able to get the second coat on the bottom over the weekend.  I am helping a friend to get his SEMA project finished and then will be in Vegas next for the SEMA convention so I dont anticipate putting the finish on the legs until I get back.  I would be really interested to see how long it would take me to make another one of these tables if I had the time to just work on it until it was done.


Wow, what a difference sanding between coats makes.
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Tuesday, January 28, 2014

Greener Is as Greener Does

Reduce, Reuse and Recycle
















As a woodworker-day in and day out, working with a medium that is truly all things living, I have a hard time not thinking about our planet, our forests and our environment. Not to get all Al Gore on you- but global warming, green house gases and my own carbon footprint...weve all heard the arguments and hopefully were all doing our share to help. That said I just received a letter from Mark at Technoprimitives describing how hes doing his own part. Bad Axe Tool works is his new saw manufacturing company and I thought (or hoped) that some of you out there may be interested to hear about his choices for packaging his new hand saws. This is a blog link from a company called Salazar packaging out of Chicago, they specialize in 100% recycled products. Hes also working with another company that manufacturers a void fill/blocking/cushioning product called green cell foam to safely and soundly pack his saws- which by the way should be shipping next week!
On this note, I try my best to use reclaimed lumber whenever I can but when buying from a mill its up to you as a woodworker to ask if the wood products youre using are sustainably harvested. Every little bit counts right?
Here is the blog: Salazar Packaging
Cheers!
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Thursday, January 23, 2014

Its All In The Details Sans The Detail Planes That Is

Things are coming along with my wife’s plant shelving unit. Not as quickly as I would like it to, but at least things are heading in the right direction.

I now have both sides completed, and son-of-a-gun if they don’t match. I have always found this to be the hardest part of building anything; when you get one side done, you have to match it. I would save myself a lot of grief with this if I worked like Rob over on the woodbloke blog. He makes scale models and does tremendous research before he even buys the materials. Often, as with this project, I don’t work from a plan. I just come up with a concept and start at it. I know that if I spent a little time creating plans, I could cut all the pieces in one go and they would all be the same. Knowing and doing is two different things, though. I just think that working things through as I go along is a lot more fun. I work one side until I get it the way I want it, and then I shoot myself in the foot making the match.


The first order of business was dressing the stock.  Using a scraper, I got rid of the squeezed out glue and realized that I would have to do very little planing. In fact, I only had to touch the plane to it in two or three places. The whole thing was cleaned up with a card scraper. I purchased a Veritas Scraper Set some time ago and I love the thing, especially the holder. I can take out a hunk of skin working with cotton balls, so anything that minimizes the chance of blood ending up on the wood is a good thing for me. While the set is a winner for me, the card holder is the bonus. It makes holding the scraper blade so much easier, especially for these large jobs.

Once I had the faces smooth, I cut the piece to length. The shelves are made from a glue-up of two 1” x 6” pieces, so the final width was 10 ¾”, which is the width I made the sides. As a result, I did not have to do any ripping on them.

I then shot the ends using my temporary shooting board with my 15” Veritas Low-Angle Jack. I have no idea how I lived without this appliance for so long, but I’m very happy to have it now. The dark areas in the image above are sweat stains, by the way.

I shot the long edges with a Stanley No.7, and I was ready to do the detail.

The detail on the shelf edge is a perfect example of why I don’t work with plans. In my drawing, I placed a three-bead reed along each edge of the shelves, but all the other details are single beads. As I looked among the Stanley No.66 Beader blades, I realized that the design would probably be more unified if the shelf edges matched the other shadow lines. I ended up putting the reeding blade back and using a single ¼” beading blade.

I started out adding a bead to the outer edges. I then wanted to remove the ¼” space between so I pulled out the little Veritas Miniature Shoulder Plane and the set of Veritas Detail Rabbet Planes. Now these little planes are really well made and I am sure in the hands of someone a heck of a lot more capable with tools than myself, they are probably an incredible advantage to a shop, but, man, I had a hell of a time with them.


The Miniature Shoulder has a blade adjuster on it, so setting the blade was very easy. Getting that blade to remove the oak in anything that resembled a reasonable amount of time, however, was another story. With a sole that is ¼” wide by 2 ½” long and only weighing in at 1.7 ounces, it was like trying to remove wood with a feather. I knew at the time I was asking a lot of this little plane. Maybe on a smaller project, one that does not involve hardwood, I might have stood a better chance. It didn’t take long to realize that there was no way the day was going to be long enough for me to plow out that space using that tool.


I then turned to the Veritas ¼” Detail Rabbet plane. At 3”, these planes are a little longer with a bit more heft to them, but they are awkward little buggers to hold. Because of their height, they are also difficult to keep square to the stock. Being a tad lighter than what was needed, it wasnt going to remove stock in a hurry either. The biggest issue I had with them, though, was setting up the blade. There is no adjustment and the only way to work it is to set it using two fingers and doing so by feel, not the easiest way for a raw amateur to set a plane blade.  I also noticed that after two runs down the 52” length, the plane was uncomfortably warm in my hand, damn near hot, actually.

I said the heck with the lot of them (ok, so maybe a little stronger than that), and went to the Veritas Miniature Plow Plane, which is what I should have started with in the first place. It was much more controllable and removed what I wanted in about 4 minutes flat. I finished it all off with a quick sand and I was done for the day.

Thankfully, only two of the four shelves require this treatment, the other two having square faced edges.

Tomorrow, I’ll start trying to match it.

Peace,

Mitchell


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